Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema entertains your dining questions, rants and raves.
Find all of Tom Sietsema's Washington Post work at washingtonpost.com/tomsietsema.
Hi Tom - Submitting in advance in the hopes you can help with a dining dilemma this weekend. My mother will be in town for her birthday and Mother's Day. She LOVES Indian cuisine and because it isn't plentiful in her Midwestern town, we often treat her to dinner at Rasika when she visits. Given your recent raves for Punjab and Pappe, however, I am wondering whether we should switch it up this visit. Do either/both compare to Rasika in terms of the overall experience - or should we keep our reservation at Rasika? Many thanks, in advance, for your guidance!
Far be it from me to mess with your reservation at Ashok Bajaj's top-drawer Indian dining room, but you've been there multiple times. I'd be inclined to introduce your mother to something new, and to select from the current batch of newcomers, including the very good Karma Modern Indian. For what it's worth, Punjab Grill is the most posh of the lot and Pappe is the most casual.
Speaking of Bajaj, he tells me he's hired former Mirabelle chef Frank Ruta to join his Knightsbridge Restaurant Group.
“We’ve been talking 10, 12 years about working together, when he was at Palena” in Cleveland Park, says Bajaj. “This time, the timing was right, and he was looking for a new opportunity.”
Ruta was brought on in April as an executive chef. Both he and his employer are still deciding which restaurant in the group might be the best fit.
CONGRATULATIONS ARE IN ORDER for the DC winners of Monday night's James Beard Awards, held in Chicago. Kwame Onwuachi of Kith & Kin won for Rising Star Chef while Bad Saint's Tom Cunanan went home with the Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic honor. And about time that Patrick O'Connell received the Lifetime Achievement award for his work at the 40 year-old Inn at Little Washington. Overall, another good year for diversity in the industry's most prestigious awards program.
I'll be away next Wednesday, so send me your pressing dining questions within the hour. I'll do my best to address them. I'm looking at lots and lots of travel-related queries. If chatters have suggestions for Denver, Bologna, Paris, Turks or Mexico City, send them my way.
Onward!
As someone who has been dining in our Nation’s capital for a very long time, I truly appreciate Nick Stefanelli’s tribute to some of the chefs and dishes that helped shaped our city’s culinary journey. While two of those chefs are no longer with us (Michel Richard and Jean-Louis Palladin) and others no longer in the kitchen, it should be noted that both Yannick Cam and Roberto Donna are still cooking every night at Bistro Provence (which you mentioned) and Al Dente respectively. Both are worth a visit...not just to remember the past or even to say thank you but because they still turn out truly delicious food. And a question for you, Tom...are there other dishes from the past you would like to see brought back - if only for a short while - because of their place in our culinary history or just because they were so very, very, very good?
What a lovely post (not to mention an opportunity to point readers in the direction of the edible tribute being featured at Masseria for the rest of the month, possibly longer).
There are a ton of dishes from the past I'd love to relive: Monday-only red beans and rice at CF Folks .... the robust fish soup at Bistro Francais in Georgetown ...papa rellena at Costa Verde in Arlington ...a "cassoulet" of lamb tongue and lamb sausage with a sail of brioche at CityZen ...soft-shell crabs bound in rice-cracker crumbs, and garnished with leek flower stems, at Makoto in the Palisades .... the table-side Caesar salad at Majestic Cafe in Old Town ...fried Ipswich clams at Kinkead's in Foggy Bottom ...the "nostalgia" platters at Jackie's in Silver Spring ... I could go on, but we only have an hour and there are lots of questions to address yet.
What are a few places to eat with good vegetarian options?
The online version of my new dining guide allows you to search for restaurants with meatless options. You don't identify a neighborhood or a budget, but of District restaurants that have been around for more than a year, Fancy Radish, Unconventional Diner and Equinox all have good vegetarian selections. The new Laos in Town in NoMa has a nice vegan list; I'm a fool for the fiery crispy rice salad there.
With so many tempting new restaurants to sample, it’s hard to keep oldies but goodies in the mix. It’s especially hard to know whether the older gems are continuing to excel. In that vein, I was wondering about Obelisk and whether it was time to pay it a return visit.
As much as I hate to type this, my last meal at Obelisk was so underwhelming, I didn't include the Italian stalwart in last year's fall dining guide. It felt as if the chef were phoning it in, frankly.
The explosion of new restaurants in recent years means I've had less time to return to veteran establishments, but I'm trying to remedy that. Did you catch my recent updates on Old Ebbitt Grill and I Ricchi, among my recent favorites? I'll be writing about another tried-and-true Washington restaurant May 19. Hint: It involves sushi.
Hi Tom - Thank you for this bright spot in an otherwise boring Wednesday. Now my question... I’m taking a group of 8 young women (mid-20’s) to Toronto later this month and need recommendations for dinner. Budget: $$-$$$ Dietary Needs: The majority of the group is adventurous, but we have 2 picky eaters (no sushi or anything too wild) Atmosphere: Something fun and lively, as this is a Bachelorette trip, but still nice enough to warrant a cute dress and heels. Must Haves: Reservations for 8; close (10 – 15 minutes UBER) proximity to the Downtown Toronto area Hopefully, this is enough information for you to provide an accurate recommendation. I appreciate any advice you, or the community, have for me and my group. Thanks
My buddy Alex Baldinger of Toronto Life was kind enough to help me out with some ideas. Here's what he sent me (yesterday, because you submitted early):
All of these are central and should be able to accommodate a group of 8 easily, though I’d book as soon as possible.
Momofuku Kōjin gives you the pedigree of David Chang restaurant, but it’s a proper celebration of Ontario produce and wine—it’s by no means only a celebrity chef’s local footprint. The chef, Paula Navarrete, hails originally from Colombia so there are South American touches as well: think seven different kinds of hot sauce potentially served with your meal. The menu is steak-focused, and some of the bigger one-off cuts are perfect for group dining. Great bar program as well, in addition to hard-to-get wines from Canada’s best winemakers.
Estia is a swank-ish place good for groups. Mediterranean influences throughout the menu, it’s located in trendy and spendy Yorkville. Lots of grilled seafood and assertively spiced meat and veg.
Toronto loves Italian food and Buca is a local legend. Rustic Italian, with lots of terrific charcuterie and painstakingly made pastas tossed with bold ingredients. The subterranean dining room has a serious big-night-out vibe, and the neighborhood, King West, is one of the city’s liveliest.
La Banane is great for serious French food and cocktails in a chic space that, on a busy evening, feels like a cranked up house party—there’s a dessert called the Ziggy Stardust Disco Egg, and I’ll say no more. Huge raw bar, strong drinks and a great location on Ossington, one of the city’s liveliest dining and drinking corridors.
I don't understand why Urbano 116 even made the dining guide. If you don't recommend it at all, why give it any more play than its review? BTW, if you want a much, much better meal, go a half block further, to Mia's Italian Kitchen. I moved from New Jersey to Alexandria 23 years ago, and it is the closest I have tasted to authentic -- and delicious -- Italian American cooking. I am not a huge fan of owner Alexandria Restaurant Partners (inconsistent quality, too political and a mixed bag of staff) but Mia's has hit home runs since it opened in the otherwise cursed 100 King Street location.
Thanks for the recommendation.
My recent spring round-up was *mostly* positive, but I felt obliged to include a few newcomers that had attracted attention for various reasons, Urbano 116 being one of them. (It's useful to know where NOT to spend your time and money, too, right?)
Are celebrity chef places more destinations than great food? I ask because we are headed to Cleveland this summer and Michael Symon has several places there. Is it worth going for the food? Or is it just for the FB check-in?
The answer depends on the chef and the restaurant. I ate well (albeit three years ago) at Symon's barn-like Mabel's BBQ. Ever heard of Cleveland-style barbecue? Pork spareribs reverberating with Eastern European spices suggest the idea has legs.
I totally missed out on planning something for Mother’s Day for my wife and our 1 year old. Any ideas for a nice but easy place we can get a reservation at this late in the game? We are open to Saturday night or Sunday brunch.
You don't say where you live, so I'm assuming the District. I just went online and noticed the following reliable restaurants still have openings for brunch on Sunday: the Riggsby in Dupont Circle, the Belgian-themed B Too on 14th St., Alta Strada for Italian in Mt. Vernon Triangle, America Eats Tavern in Georgetown and Puerta Verde for Mexican in Ivy City.
The fry plate from Palena! How amazing would it be if we ever got Palena 2.0 from Frank Ruta.
Hi Tom, What can you tell us about the timing of the new restaurant to occupy the Restaurant Nora space? Last fall I read a snippet about its status but here in May the only signs of change I've seen is a trimmed herb garden. Do you know qhen something might open? If yes, would you share? Thanks!
Ashok Bajaj, who acquired the space in Dupont Circle, recently filed a construction permit and plans to reopen it as Annabelle "in late September or early October," says the restaurateur.
Consider this update a job posting: Bajaj says he's looking for "a talented, well-rounded chef who will wow DC."
Let the resumes start flowing in his direction.
Where would you go? I've been to, and enjoyed, all of his joints (save Minibar, but this will barely make a downpayment there). Wondering which you think would offer the best return?
That money would go pretty far at the very good Jaleo in Penn Quarter, which I included in my Hall of Fame of DC restaurants last year.
OP here. Last week you asked why I ranked Punjab Grill the winner. Here's the breakdown: Service - at all three restaurants I experienced impeccable service. Food quality - good quality, creativity, and delicious bites, also at each place. Ambiance - St. Anselm and Punjab Grill pull away here; very cool vibe in each place, with a focus on the details that make a place stand out. Satisfaction with portion sizes - a tie between St. Anselm and Punjab Grill. I was full when I left both places. But not disgustingly, grossly full. (Note: Rooster & Owl was enough food for me and I didn't leave hungry, but my husband was still a little hungry.) At each restaurant, the bill was around $250 for two people including drinks, tax, and gratuity. And at that price point, in order to declare the winner, there is one final factor to consider - where do I want to go back ASAP. And the answer is Punjab Grill. So many dishes still to try!
Hi Tom, my partner and I will be heading into Georgetown Saturday morning to do some shopping. We'd love to grab lunch while there, and would be interested to hear your suggestions- casual, moderately priced, water view would be nice but not essential, somewhere with a good cocktail or glass of wine. Pretty open as far as cuisine- perhaps somewhere with some lighter options as we have dinner plans later in the evening. Thanks!
You'll get a water view -- for a price -- at the fancy Fiola Mare, which when I think of it isn't what you're after. The breezier option is French: Chez Billy Sud, which isn't on the water but sports a nice patio where you can sip Sancerre.
Hi Tom! My hubby and I are celebrating our elopement with dinner and we’d like to bring a bottle of red wine that we bought at the winery where we married. What are some good restaurant options for byob or places with corkage options? We like all foods and I’m a pescatarian. Thanks in advance!
Visit El Voila!, the charming Belgian outpost in the Palisades, on a Monday night and the fee to bring in your own wine is waived altogether. (The steamed mussels are superb, btw.) Same thing holds true for the veteran 1789 in Georgetown on Tuesday evenings.
Of the newer crop of fish-focused restaurants, there's Estuary in the sleek Conrad hotel, where it costs $50 to bring in your own bottle.
Where would you recommend for dinner after 10PM?
Annie's Paramount Steakhouse -- an American Classic, says James Beard! -- is open til 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and around the clock on weekends.
Anyone else care to chime in on late-night eats?
When a chef leaves a restaurant for another, do the recipes go with her/him? Are they considered the property of the original restaurant? Can the chef make a variation on a recipe in a new place without causing a furor?
Interesting question. I guess it depends partly on the relationship between the chef and the restaurant, and what's considered proprietary. I know that when Kaz Okochi departed the original Sushiko to open his own restaurant downtown, he took his signature sea trout napoleon with him.
Any chef or restaurateur care to weigh in on the matter?
I loved the food at Atomix, but I really don't understand the James Beard award for design it received. It's a long, narrow, dark cave covered in concrete. But great food!
Ha! I kind of dig the vertical Zen garden you lounge in before being escorted to the black granite counter, but I hear you. The illustrated menu cards at the Korean dining destination -- one of my favorite places to eat in New York -- are both beautiful and practical, however.
The salt crusted fish served with roasted grapes at Teatro Goldoni and the Roasted Beef cart at Colvin Run! Those popovers were the best. And the mushroom soup at Colvin Run was divine. Like velvet.
Hi Tom, when a waiter announces the daily specials, should the price of the specials also be mentioned? I was once surprised to see, when the check arrived, that the lunch appetizer special I ordered was $49. Since then, I've always asked prices, but it seems tacky, and often the waiter seems surprised by the question and needs to go check. What's the protocol here?
It's the waiter's job to state the price of a special. No one likes unpleasant surprises. I've actually heard from a few DINERS who disagree with me, thinking that any mention of price is tacky, but I figure they must be one percenters.
For the Cleveland questioner, I was just at a wedding in Cleveland and some of the other guests and I went to Lola the night before. We found it absolutely delicious! The hanger steak with some of the most amazing fries I ever had was a real winner, as was the beef cheek pierogies, the charcuterie platter and the mushroom side dish. We really stuffed ourselves and had no room for dessert!
Hi, Tom, I month or so ago I sent a few suggestions for Denver places to consider --- don't know if they got lost in the crowd, but I thought I'd send them again. We eat in Denver a lot & are always on the lookout for "goodies". Here are a few of our favorites: 1. Barolo Grill, 3030 E. 6th Ave. Harvey Steiman reviewed their wine list a few months ago for Wine Spectator. Also I wrote you about it a while back because the owner closes the restaurant for 2 weeks every summer and takes the staff to Italy for food and wine tastings. As our waiter said , “Once you get a job here, you never want to leave”. It’s by far our favorite. 2. Cholon Asia Restaurant, 1655 Blake St. Good Asian food, but a bit loud. 3. Safta, 3330 Brighton Blvd. This is Alon Shaya’s newest — since he left Shaya in New Orleans. Still good Israeli food, much like Shaya. 4, Acorn, 3350 Brighton Blvd. Also in the same “warehouse district” as Safta, but very different. 5. Bobby Stuckey’s new place in Denver, Tavenetta, in Union Station 6. Il Posto in RiNO --- excellent Italian & the only place I've even seen with a menu of Negronis (!)
Bless you for re-sending what sounds like a promising game plan for Denver.
My favorite restaurants in Mexico City are Pujol Taco Omakase, Pujol regular tasting menu, Maximo Bistrot, Panaderia Rosetta (Rol De Guayaba), Lalo, Sud 777, Contramar, Raiz, tacos- Taqueria Los Chupacabras, El Vilsito, Taqueria Los Cocuyos. Get your churro on Churreria El Moro and don’t miss El Pozole De Moctezuma for amazing Pozole.
This is great. From now on, maybe I should start posting the names of all the cities for which everyone wants restaurant suggestions in my introduction.
Shout out to Bad Saint! I discovered that a gift card I'd received had expired, emailed them explaining and they extended it for 6 months. Was able to use it and had a great experience. Also, goes to the old adage that it doesn't hurt to ask. I was either out a hundred bucks by default, or could ask and maybe or maybe not be out the $100. Delicious and understanding, a great combo - congrats to them!
Planning a celebratory dinner at The Salt Line in a few weeks. I saw you recently recommended it for the view, but since your most recent review was a couple years ago - any can't miss items on the menu? Or items that we *should* miss?
I dropped anchor there not long ago. The seafood restaurant is still fun, and the service remains great, but the food wasn't as appealing as before. The best dishes -- a dip and a spring pasta -- involved crab. But the Parker house rolls were dull, the coddies heavier than I remember them, and the desserts forgettable.
Hi Tom, My brother and I ended up on DC to finish our last semester of college and will both graduate this month. My parents will be in town from Minnesota to help us celebrate. Looking for something more higher end than my brother and I are usually able to enjoy but won't completely break the bank. Thinking $$$ not $$$$. While mom and dad are more adventurous, the graduates prefer meat and potatoes. Thanks!
My immediate thought is the lively St. Anselm near Union Market. It's got great steak and sides for you and your brother, and dishes including salmon collar and feet-on chicken for your open-minded parental units.
If I'm interested in a special but concerned that it may have a surprising price tag (like includes lux ingredients or seafood that may have a high market price), I'll just say, "The beluga scallops sound interesting, can you please tell me the price? I don't like surprises." No one's feathers seem ruffled, and presumably the server would rather answer that question than deal with a huffy diner who felt swindled when the check came.
Good for you. But even so, you shouldn't have to ask. The server should just declare the price.
Then why are there prices on the menu - or alternatively the specials are written on a menu insert with the prices. Just because it's spoken doesn't make it tacky. Budgets aren't tacky.
Hi Tom, a first time writer here, but I am a faithful follower of the chats and your reviews. As to the Bologna traveler, I have been eating there since I went to grad school there in 69/70. Two places you can't go wrong, with great local atmosphere. Da Pietro, between the Piazza Maggiore is great for wild boar when it is in season, and for a scrumptious rolled saddle of rabbit when the boar is not available. Other options are great too, but these are my faves. Da Gianni, in the central market area is famous for its local pastas Think handmade Tagliatelle Bolognese, tortellini in crema (in my opinion much better than the tortellini in brodo, but less calorific), and other options. Da Gianni is probably great for Lasagna Bolognese too. The local version is unlike any found elsewhere: spinach lasagna sheets, béchamel instead of ricotta, and true Bolognese sauce. Eating in Bologna is one of the world's great pleasures!
I feel like I'm on vacation today. Thanks for sending us such a helpful "postcard."
Good morning. My wife and I dined at a Mexican restaurant recently, her meal came with a side of guacamole, mine did not. A runner dropped off our meals and a side of guacamole for each of us. We felt it was our lucky day. Then our server came over, saw the second guac and took it off our table, apologizing for the mistake. She gave it to the table next to us, apparently it was intended for them. My wife and I felt slighted. Was the server wrong to take the second guacamole from us?
In fairness, the second guacamole was a mistake. You didn't really "order" it. But a *smarter* server would have left the misplaced dip on your table and brought a fresh bowl to the diners who actually expected it.
Hi Tom, looking for your help!! I know its last minute, but the fam has decided to spend Saturday in Mt Vernon and are looking to eat in Old Town after--Dad is a meat & potatoes guy, Mom loves seafood/likes to eat healthy, and my sister and I aren't picky. Looking for a place that feels celebratory enough for Mom, but isn't too fancy for a bunch of us coming off a day of playing tourist in our own city...thanks for all you do!!
You're in luck. The very good (but not overly fancy) Vermilion has open tables on Saturday. There's New York strip steak for Dad, carrot falafel or Skuna Bay salmon for Mom, and chilled pea soup with country ham and rhubarb to cheer the season. But I wouldn't dawdle.
I've been on a duck kick recently having enjoyed the duck confit hash at The Riggsby, the duck breast at Blue Duck Tavern, and the duck confit at Et Voila!. The latter has so far been the winner. Any other spots/dishes I should add to my list to continue the quest?
While I haven't had the duck confit there in two years, everything else I've eaten at La Piquette recently was at least good, suggesting the dish you want will be of equal quality.
For duck in general, you definitely want to check out Bresca for its dry-aged, crisp-skinned duck, pressed at the table and currently served with a savory tart (of leg and thigh meat) topped with a cherry glaze, a salad of kohlrabi and yeast rolls. Just be sure to visit early at night, as the modern American restaurant offers only four per dinner.
Chef Ryan Ratino says he's featuring a family-style, $85-a-head pressed duck dinner May 22, for those patrons who can never seem to snag a reservation. Bonus: the owner of D'Artagan, his duck supplier, will be on hand to talk about the pedigreed bird.
Hi Tom, My fiance and I are trying to decide whether or not to do O-ku's omakase which is a relatively affordable $100 or something more lavish, such as Sushi Taro's omakase--some considerations: we love sushi but have never done an omakase before and are worried we won't love some of the more unusual fish preparations. Should we test out the water with O-ku or dive right in with Sushi Taro, or another omakase you'd recommend (no Nakazawa please!) Thank you!!
Hands down, Sushi Taro is one of the best "chef's choice" experiences not just in Washington, but on the East Coast. At $180, it's a splurge, but totally worth it.
I haven't been to O-Ku -- where the grilled items bested the sushi -- since I reviewed the Japanese restaurant. It's opening chef has since left.
Why can't Cindy Wolf win a James Beard Award? Bad Saint is great, so is Rose's and Woodberry Kitchen and all the other places that have won in the past decade … but Cindy made Baltimore a dining destination and she's been the best chef in Maryland forever. Frustrating. Agree?
I, too, wish the great Baltimore chef behind Charleston had won the honor by now, but if there's a silver lining here, it's the likelihood of her being on that short list of five nominees next year.
Truly, just getting nominated is an honor (and I say that, having been nominated eight times for James Beard journalism awards myself, and winning once, for my survey of America's best food cities
And old dear friend from my childhood just told me he’ll be in town tonight. Haven’t seen him in years. Where should we go? Something vibrant and delicious. No price restrictions
"Vibrant and delicious?" Stop reading this chat and book a table at the freshly-minted Seven Reasons. Also: have fun tonight.
Would you have been mad if they'd charged you for the guacamole you didn't order? I'm guessing probably. So why would you feel entitled to it simply because someone made a mistake?
This may be a bit off topic, but I thought I'd say something since someone mentioned it. At least in VA, places of business are not allowed to put expiration dates on gift cards. I've seen restaurants do this before, but you shouldn't let them. I'd be surprised if there wasn't a similar statute in DC. I'm glad Bad Saint did the right thing, but really, it's money you've already paid them. It shouldn't expire.
That's all good -- unless/until a restaurant closes, and I can't tell you how many times readers have come to me a'crying about places that go dark before they can dine there. My advice: use it or lose it. But DON'T lose it before you can lose it ... I digress...
I believe Fish was the name of Jose Andres' restaurant at National Harbor. I have not heard you mention it in a long time. Is it still good?
Honestly, I haven't been there in a year or so. And I've received complaints about the place since then.
I'd be more concerned about being handed something that was -- even for a minute -- on someone else's table. I thought that was forbidden?
Maybe the restaurant subscribes to the five-second rule some of us use at home?
Once something is on a table, it should stay there or go back to the kitchen. If I were the second table, I'd have rejected the second hand guacamole.
Would it make a difference if that dish were a prime steak or a lobster entree? Just wondering. Because I've had dozens, if not hundreds, of dishes mistakenly brought to me over the years.
Tom, I'm noticing a trend here - several commenters (three weeks in a row) have commented that the portions can be small at Rooster and Owl and people often leave with a bit of an appetite left... At what point (if any) do you reach out to the restaurants to pass along the feedback?
I figure this chat is my soap box and restaurants are likely to see what I have to say about them (or to have a topic brought to their attention by someone else). And I'm happy to chat with chefs or others about chats that pertain to them. I'm easy to reach: tom.sietsema@washpost.com
I wouldn't care if a server took away something that hadn't been ordered. But if I was the person who ordered it, I would not -- at least not knowingly -- accept any item that had any detours between the kitchen and my table
Haven't you ever been in a situation where the diner seated next to you gets your order, or vice versa? And the problem is almost immediately resolved? I don't like to waste food, you might have read.
Once it hits a table, it stays there. Doesn't matter what it is. I'd send back anything--whole fish, lobster, steak and endure the wait for a replacement to be made...or do without and never go back to that restaurant.
Where should I go for a casual lunch in Adams Morgan on Friday? I know that some dinner places (e.g. Zenebech) are open for lunch on Fridays but wanted to see if you knew of any others or had recommendations? Don't want fast-casual but also don't want to feel uncomfortable in my Tevas.
Not much is open for lunch in Adams Morgan. One of the exceptions is the long-running Mama Ayesha on Calvert St. The menu is Middle Eastern.
That's a wrap for today, gang. Thanks for the pleasure of your company. Remember, I'll be away next week. Let's re-group on May 22 at 11 a.m. Until then, eat well and play nice.
