Live Q&As

Yes, absolutely use the flowers from chives and thyme. They are beautiful and delicious. They have a bit of a peppery aspect to them—who  objects to that?

From Jason:

I like rum sometimes with ice (though cubes not crushed) but as you say, however you like it is the best way. I agree that more expensive -- and longer aged rums -- are not always better. I've never had Cubaney 12 year old, but now might seek it out.

Here's a recipe for a tuna, whote bean and roasted red pepper salad gives that old tuna a little kick using two of my favorite pick me ups: lemons and roasted red peppers.

Nope. Guess you'd have to contact Chef Rusty for that.

I'd throw a bunch of the leaves in a simmering simple syrup -- would be great for summer cocktails and homemade lemonade. I think the lemon basil would work nicely with fish. Of course there's pesto. Seems like it's big in Indonesian dishes too.  Chatters, what do you do with it?

Jason says:

Here are a few rum punches you might try.

• The pink-hued Jamaican Punch that ran this week would look and taste lovely.

• This Honey Spiced Punch is a mix of cachaca, rum, and falernum.

• More involved is the Boston Club Punch, which with its addition of sparkling wine makes this refreshing on a hot day.

For muffins, consider Oat Bran Muffins With Walnuts and Blueberries.

Other inspiration:

Meme's Blackberry Cobbler (don't be fooled by the name -- you can use almost any fruit)

Lobster, Blueberry and Corn Salad With Blueberry Vinaigrette

Chicken and Blueberry Pasta Salad

Grape Blueberry Fizz

Chilled Blueberry Soup

I promise letting the stock boil will not result in catastrophe! What will happen is that the stock will cloud up like murky water and, if you let it boil too long, the stock will reduce and you may end up having to add water. All in all, best to monitor closely then adjust the heat so you have a slow simmer.

Jason advises:

I like smoky mezcal mainly as an accent - too much is overwhelming. As a base spirit it mixes very well with sherry, as in the Smoked Palomino [link in archive.] what you describe could work well too, especially the grapefruit. But use an easy hand on the maraschino.

The stock cooked in two hours, which is admittedly too long for the white meat, but not for the neck meat, which makes an amazing ragú. The white meat was not objectionable texture-wise and was quite fine for turkey salad and a quick pasta made with some of that rich stock. It would be fine in a casserole all mixed together, like a Tetrazzini or a hot dip for a lot of company.

When I made veal stock, I used the braised chunks of veal (which I had left as large as possible) for a quick blanquette, even though it had cooked for 4 hours. I'm certainly not throwing it out at $9/pound. It was delicious nonetheless.

Incidentally, I took the chunks of meat and stock I used to make today's essences and defrosted them the other night, cooked the meat until it was tender and added the leftover sauces and some shiitake mushrooms to make a stew. I served it over rice I made with smoked chicken stock I had on hand. Let me tell you, that was one terrific dinner. It totally reinforced the argument I made today that it is totally worth the time to go for excellence instead of speed and ease. 

And more from Jason:

I wrote a feature about tiki drinks a few years back -- you'll find about five cocktails here that I like to make. The layering of different rums is definitely an important aspect of tiki drinks. 

I feel like some fairly sturdy cookies are the way to go:

Chocolate Mudslide Cookies

Chocolate Snowflakes

Double Chocolate Coconut Cookies

Frangelico Crinkles

German Chocolate Cookies

Happy to See Me Chocolate Salami

Salty Chocolate Nutella Thumbprints

Pretty simple. Use a heavy-bottomed saucepan, preferably one that has sloping sides (so the liquid doesn't evaporate too much as you're trying to thicken it). You can add a bit of sugar, if you like.

The summer I studied with Madeleine she was finishing up her update of "The Making of a Cook," which is how my name wound up in the Acknowledgements. 

What I always loved about her TV shows was that she did not talk down to viers and assumed that they were intelligent people who knew something about cooking. I also loved how she would blithely turn over sauteeing items with her asbestos fingers and not even flinch.

I have not cooked the dish you mentioned, so I can't really speak to it.

Madeliene suggests turkey stock as a stand-in for veal stock, but more in a pinch. The next time I make a btach, I will sue the duck carcasses I have in the freezer for sure. i think good cooks just know how to put these things together for a good stock. Chicken feet? Absolutely. Roasting aromatics for caramelization? Yes!

One thing that Kamman always warned about was the over-reduction of stocks. She really objected to the stickiness of sauces and I have to say a lot of chefs who still make sauces like this make that mistake a lot. Your lips should not stick together when you take a bite of steak, right? It's all about knowing when to stop and taking the time to reduce slowly so that you bring out all the flavor before the gelatin gets too sticky. 

Ha! Not that I saw. I saw a clip of the recent country music awards show in which ZBB and Brad Paisley were performing together, and Brad was wearing a matching cap. Seemed like some sort of message....

Maybe it was just a bad batch. I'd bring my concerns to the attention of the dairy section manager so the cheese could be pulled from the shelf and replaced with a newer, fresher batch.

What kinds of dishes are you looking for? We have like 5,000 recipes in our database. Let's try to narrow it down a bit!

The fish is coated in the marinade and is quite thick and moist itself, so the soft crumbs actually adhere quite easily! Don't stress about the flipping...even if the fillets break up a bit, they'll still taste great.

Oh no! Did you try a small batch in the toaster oven?

How about another drink? I love honey-lemon iced tea. The honey sweetens the tea flavorfully, the lemon adds zing. Sooooo much better than bottled iced tea.

Thanks so much for your kind comments. I wasn't sure how the piece would go over because we live in a food world now where the benchmarks seem to be 5 ingredients and 5 minutes. That can be a useful formula, but I fear we are sacrificing true greatness for convenience.

I am actually not a huge fan of mustardy things, but the blissful alliance between veal and mustard cannot be denied. Just the hint of mustard brings out veal's sweetness. On top of the foundation the essence provides and the texture and balance the cream adds, you wind up with something harmonious and superlative.

Great tip, but not for me. My favorite part of a tuna sandwich is the soggy bread. Guess it takes all kinds....:)

Becky and I have been complaining nonstop. We like "All Things Great and Small" as much as the next guy, but sheesh. We'll try to call and follow up.

As you may know, the book's set up in a kind of scrapbook-y way, with cardboard pages and lots of photos of the band and places that are meaningful to Zac. The recipes are printed on 3 x 5 cards that you can pull out -- that's a nice feature. I tested only 3, but I got to taste the pork tenderloin and that's a winner. Had high hopes but trouble with the beignets recipe, which calls for Abita Purple Haze Beer.  Might have to go back at those!

How about our web site. We have a handy dandy recipe finder that lets you do just that. To get you started, here's a simple corn and pancetta saute from our collection.

This Honey Spice Beer Cake is awesome.

 Shrimp are so good great that one of the best things you can do is also one of the simplest: just salt them in their shells, head on, and grill them. Use direct heat. High. Squirt with a little lime, eat. 

     For something more complex, shell and devein some shrimp and marinate them for an hour in the juice of a couple of oranges and a lemon, along with a little salt and a pinch of ground black pepper. Add some crushed red pepper flakes or a couple of dashes of hot sauce for more zing. Grill. 

 Here's one more, a go-to recipe from a book I like called "Fish & Shellfish, Grilled & Smoked" by Karen Adler and Judith M. Fertig (Harvard Common Press): Take about 2 dozen jumbo shrimp, shell and devein them, and marinate for a half-hour in a couple of cloves of finely chopped garlic, a little minced shallot, a teaspoon and a half of Dijon mustard, and a third of a cup each of dry white wine, fresh lemon juice. fresh hand-torn basil, and a half-cup of olive oil. Pull the shrimp from the marinade. Pour the marinade into a saucepan and boil for about 5 minutes to reduce. Grill the shrimp. Place the shrimp on a platter. Drizzle the cooked marinade over the shrimp. Eat with good, crusty bread. 

Hungry now.

Dried pasilla peppers are carried at some Whole Foods stores, I've noticed. You can find Mexican chocolate and crema at Shoppers and Giant, and probably other large chains. Trader Joe's, I'm not so sure. Chatters?

Fridge, fridge, fridge, though they are beautiful in a glass bowl on the counter....

Are you in the D.C. area? We want you  to come down to The Post and bake with us. Send an e-mail to food@washpost.com with your particulars. For the sake of good CCCs everywhere!

Just tracked down this one from Elinor Klivans, while I was doing research for The Washington Post Cookbook. Speaking of, thanks to all who have taken the time to send in names of recipes they'd like to see in the book.

Like the sound of that.

I stand corrected (and improved!).:)

That cake is so good. I'd forgotten about it.

I left the door open for future columns on other kinds of sauces, so there was method to my madness.

The classification of sauce really has a lot to do with how they are thickened. Reducing stock or cream is one way (with or without mounting with butter). Then there are sauces with starchy thickeners like roux and slurries of cornstarch, potato starch, arrowroot,  etc. These would include gravies, bechamel and velouté. Then you have acid reductions mounted with butter (beurre blanc) and sauces thickened with eggs (hollandaise, bearnaise, sabayon, custards). Add to that vinaigrettes, thinned purees, tomato sauces and there is quite a bit to cover.

That being said, the recipes from today are meant to be serve with meat. Using vegetable stock is moot, since the vegetables will not create a lot of caramel and then can't endure along cooking process. Vegetables have no gelatin in them, so you don't get the level of complexity, either of flavor or texture, that you seek.

A beurre blanc (acid reduced with shallots and mounted with butter) finished with lots of herbs is always terrific if not a bit rich. Vegetable sauces made with veggie stock, say corn, onions, thyme, garlic, stock, cream, feta cheese cooked down and pureed makes for a lovely summer sauce. 

You can use mustard greens is any recipe calling for a dark leafy green. Here's one for a Kale and Feta Tart that you sneak the mustad greens into. As for freezing, you could cook, cool, package and freeze the greens but it might more work than it's worth.

You can adjust the temperature or allow for a shorter cooking time; definitely check your oven's manual.

Last year I went on a mini-wine tour and visited three that had been recommended by oenophile friends. Loved Sunset Hills and Breaux, both in Purcellville. I liked Viramar (in Berryville) okay, but one of the draws there is the beautiful view, and the day I went, the weather was foul. You should like the wine at all of them.

First, I'll say I had a lovely time at North Mountain Vineyard the other week. Beautiful setting and nice wines.

Second, here's what Dave McIntyre suggests:

You have many choices. In Fairfax County , Paradise Springs in Clifton is a nice visit, though it isn't really near other wineries. Middleburg offers two good wineries: Chrysalis and Boxwood, which opens to the public for the first time this weekend. Further north around Leesburg and upper Loudoun County, I can recommend Breaux, Sunset Hills, Hillsborough, and Corcoran, which also has a brewery in case you need a palate cleanser. If you take White's Ferry across the Potomac, Tarara and Fabbioli are nearby. Along the I-66 corridor -- if you have a small group and can call ahead for a weekend appointment, RdV Vineyards in Delaplane is worth the effort and expense. That would also give you a chance to visit Delaplane Cellars and the popular Barrel Oak Winery which are not far from there.  Near Front Royal, Linden, Chester Gap and Glen Manor would make a great trifecta.

You can always find it on our home page under the "Editor's Choice" header.

I don't devein after grilling shrimp in their shells. The primary reason for deveining, seems to me, is for looks. When shelled, then cooked, they just look prettier. 

Plus, I find it easier to devein them before they're grilled.

Truth is, if there is a taste difference, I can't perceive it. But maybe that's just me. (I've had sensational shrimp, undeveined, in both backyards - including my own - and restaurants alike.) So, devein or don't devein, up to you. 

Gougeres are best warm right out of the oven, but yes they'll hold up. Just be careful to prick a little hole in each puff so the hot air inside can escape and don't cover them.

The real problem is not eating them before your guests arrive. Gougeres are a particular favorite in my house and they don't last long.

Gougeres  can be frozen and reheated, too. This recipe's easy and good.

Haha, yeah, I remember running that nutritional analysis. As Bonnie suggests, you can experiment with cutting the sugar in the frosting -- or not have the frosting at all. The cake is good enough to stand on its own.

Our beer contributor Daniel Fromson says:

Finding a relaxing tap takeover event this weekend could be a challenge, but here's one pick where there's usually a more laid-back vibe and enough seating to avoid the Savor crowds: Smoke & Barrel in Adams Morgan, which has an Odell Brewing event all day Saturday, where Doug Odell will be on hand with several of his beers including some limited releases. Other good events that day, which also start around 1, include the local brewers bash at Meridian Pint and the Short's Brewing event at ChurchKey, but these will probably be packed with people. You might also consider the Stone tap takeover on Sunday at Bier Baron, where a number of rare offerings will be poured. For more details on all the events going on, be sure to check out dcbeer.com.

 

Getting your growler filled will be tough: only production breweries such as DC Brau are allowed to fill growlers in the District, and most of those will probably be closed on Saturday and Sunday. Your best bet might be driving out to Virginia or Maryland to Port City Brewing in Alexandria (where I think you can take a tour on Saturday or Sunday), Mad Fox Brewing in Falls Church, or Franklin's in Hyattsville, all of which can pour beer to go.

Very cool.

First, let's help those who are in need! :)

Hmm..wonder whether meringues could work for you? Look over this selection. Grilled/roasted bananas can be quite good with a little bit of butter. Maybe with pureed kiwi on the side?

Boil them briefly; make a mash with garlic and chives and creme fraiche. Or hang onto them for another week, when we'll have delightful summer soup recipes.

What a great story. There's nothing like that, right? And I firmly believe that the pride translates to the plate. As does the lack of it.

Thanks for reading Chat Leftovers! Because bay and rosemary are evergreens (bay not as reliably in these parts) I don't know if it'd make much sense to dry them, since you probably have access to the fresh stuff 24/7. About chives: I freeze mine. I find that they retain flavor much better. I cut some and leave some whole; doesn't seem to make much difference taste-wise.

I lived through this with my stepfather. What he really still  appreciated and enjoyed were the foods of his childhood. For him, chicken paprikash (cooked long and slow so it was very tender) and baked apples were still appealing. Your friend might have a few dishes he'd love to see again. Even if he can't name them you might be able to guess based on his heritage,

     Try beer-can chicken. My colleague David Hagedorn has a great recipe in the Post archives. 

      Also, you can baste pork ribs with beer.

You can also just grill whatever you like - ribs, steak, pork loin, fish - and drink the beer. 

What about yours, Jim? Pecan-Smoked Beer Can Chicken.

Those meat essences in the freezer are pure gold to a cook. You use them to make sauce  when the meat you've prepared doesn't produce sufficient juice on it's own, like a grilled or pan-fried steak or a roast. (A braised piece of meat provides its own base for sauce.)

You  make a fast sauce by deglazing the pan from a roast (This makes a fast wine reduction), adding some essence, herbs and butter, then straining it and adding herbs to finish. This is how you have enough sauce to feed a lot of people. There is just a world of difference between that sauce and a gravy or a sauce boat full of thinned pan juices. It's what separates the men from the boys, so to speak.

Try it and you will see. The day will come when you remember you have that in the freezer and use it to make sauce or stew. You will find the result revelatory. You can't help but notice the difference.

To make a soup, you just cook some vegetables in the stock, then add  the cooked meat you from the essences (if you did that) and/or the stock. It's a great way to sue the stock that winds up in the bottom of the bowl to which you transferred the stock solids.

Adds such a good crunch. String tip, correct!

I was hoping you'd fill me in on what type of course you needed, but here are some appealing finger foods:

Baked Boursin and Tomato Appetizer

Dates Stuffed With Goat Cheese

Figs Wrapped in Prosciutto

Fruit Chaat

Hot Chicken Dip

Pimento Cheese

Spinach and Goat Cheese Bruschetta

Susan’s Favorite Tomato Hors d’Oeuvres

I do that, too. As long as you're occasionally washing them (by hand) they should be okay -- especially if they are labeled BPA-free.

Yes, bake on parchment paper or use this old trick: spinkle a heavy layer of cornmeal on your baking sheet. It will keep the bagels from sticking. Some of the cornmeal will stick to the bagels adding to their authenticity.

    Heard of it. Done it. It's great. Fruit on the grill is fun and easy - and a good way to use dying embers, as you typically don't want a hot fire. 

Melt a couple of tablespoons of butter and a quarter-cup of brown sugar in a saucepan. 

     When you finish cooking your main mean, slice pineapple in 1/2-inch thick slabs. Grill over direct heat on each side for about 5 minutes is the fire is low, 2 to 3 minutes if it is pretty hot. Remove from the grill, then spoon the butter-brown sugar mixture over the pineapple. 

     You can add a couple of shakes of rum or vanilla to the butter/brown sugar as it cooks, if you like. 

     The other thing you can do is nothing. Grilled pineapple is fabulous by itself. Or, chop it and use as a topping for ice cream. 

I endorse any Jeni's recipe. But also, here's ours for Guinness Ice Cream.

And I can't believe I forgot to mention the recipe that came out of this year's Beer Madness (which I made twice and people practically inhaled), Chocolate Coconut Porter Cake.

A saute pan will work -- just dont use a skillet or saucepan with a broad bottom and you'll be fine.

I'm so jealous -- love plums. We have a recipe for a Black Plum Tarte Tatin and I'm sure you can use your smaller plums in place of the large ones. (You might have to make a trip to the supermarket and weigh 12 black plums to get a rough equivalent of how many to use.) Also try Edith Eis's Plum Cake, Plum Dumplings , Plum and Cinnamon Crumble, Plum Cinnamon Sauce -- and the list goes on. I suppose what I should have said instead is: Go to our Recipe Finder database and do an advanced search for plums, and you'll be rewarded. (You want to do the advanced search and select fruit, or you'll also get results for plum tomatoes.)

I'll forward this to our online producer. Can you tell us what browser you're using? I heard from one other person with this problem yesterday, so I have to wonder.

Thank you so much. I am gratified and relieved to know that there are true cooks still out there. 

And I plan to track down that potato recipe, too. Though I might wait until the fall.

Yes, freeze it! Liquid gold!

Absolutely freeze that precious liquid. You can add it to soups, stocks and stews to boost flavor. Or save it for a rainy day, reheat and dip chunks of bread into it. Yum.

Broth is meant to be eaten on its own; stock isn't. You use stock to make something else, that's why I referred to mine as stock. If you were to eat it before reducing it a lot, it would be very bland as it has little added salt. Although, truth be told, this Mock Veal Stock is totally flavorful, I didn't want to confuse people by referring to both stocks and broths.

I wouldn't use the turkey meat for pot pie because they get baked for 30-45 minutes at least and that turkey has already taken a beating. Quick pasta or soups are better in this case.

Um, have you ever put just made chocolate pudding over ice cream? You should. I would call it a sauce (or a beverage), until it sets. Then it's a pudding.

Good thing this chat happens around lunchtime. You're making me hungry.

Yeah, someone sent us a YouTube link last week for a video on that. I have not tried it, although I'm intrigued. Maybe I'll experiment tonight with the corn in my fridge! Will report back.

       There are different types of ribs and all sorts of rubs to mix and match. 

      Baby back is the common term for top loin ribs. They tend to be succulent and mild in flavor. 

       Spareribs are more flavorful, but also a little tougher. Nothing a good long smoking can't handle, though. 

You can put any rub on any rib. I prefer a bit of a heavier, spicier rib on my baby backs (a little brown sugar, some ancho powder, a bit of cayenne included) and a simpler rub on my spare ribs, sometimes just salt and coarse black pepper. But that's just me. Use whatever rub you like on whatever ribs you prefer. 

I don't think the protein  disappears, but I;m not sure of its nutritional value. To be honest, I was more concerned about value than nutritional value where that meat was concerned.

Toss with olive oil, season with salt, pepper and complementary herbs of your choice, arrange on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer and roast at 400 degrees until the vegetables are soft and have picked up some caramelization. Time depends on the vegetable.

Lemon curd is on my list of things I've never made but really need to. Love it.

     Not crazy at all. Smoking beans gives them a deep flavor. You can place them in the smoker for a little smoke after they've already been cooked or you can just cook them on the grill to start with. 

I've also seen disk chocolate at some wine shops.

Your nearest farmers market will have them. Also some Asian supermarkets such as H Mart or Great Wall.

You never know! If parties are interested, we can try to match you up. Send me an e-mail -- krystalr@washpost.com.

I plan to write a column on those sauces, some of which can be frozen. Depends on what's in them, obviously. My objection to them in restaurants is that you often have too much protein chasing too little sauce and it's exasperating.

Are you kidding? Shhhhh....that's my Thanksgiving column on gravy.

Jason says:

Any of the rums I've suggested for the tasting in today's article would be more pleasant than medicinal. But if you want something with more of a fresh sugarcane taste rather than molasses, perhaps I'd suggest the Rhum Clement VSOP?

Try this one.